KIA ORA, AOTEAROA - NZ in two weeks (15 days)
Written: Feb 22 '07 (Updated Mar 02 '07)
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Pros: Amazing landscape, nice climate, mostly friendly people, lots of activities
Cons: Somewhat expensive (in season), two weeks are too short, some sights get really crowded
The Bottom Line: A dream vacation that can turn into a minor nightmare without proper planning. Take your time to enjoy!
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| theuerkorn's Full Review: New Zealand |
This has been our dream vacation before we're focusing on the birth of our first child. After 15 days on the islands and 4 days in travel to and from NZ, we're very happy to have made this trip despite the associated expenses. Most attractions turned out to be all they were advertised to be.
IN A NUTSHELL
New Zealand has been popular for many years now and only distance and cost are reasons for the comparatively moderate tourism of under two million visitors per year. However that's still one tourist per every two residents in a country that's know for its vast nature (and the fact that sheep and possums outnumber humans by at least 10:1 each).
Driving may be natural for British and Japanese visitors, but Americans and Europeans should be especially careful. It certainly helps to think about actions taken in traffic rather than relying on instincts, but in general it should not take longer than a few days to get used to it. Traveling distance can be easily underestimated as the roads don't allow for the maximum speed of 100 km/h. (NZ is completely converted to the metric system and uses 220V as well.)
Shopping and restaurants are hard to distinguish from other western countries. Lovers of spicy foods need to be aware that mild is really what the word suggests even at traditionally spicy restaurant like Thai. NZ food is distinctively British (low in spices and sometimes flavor), but the meat like lamb and venison are both excellent. (The latter is farm raised too.) Seafood is another recommendation, and Europeans may be very happy about the popular Cafe restaurants with a wide selection of panini (grilled sandwiches). I sure was.
Main language is the Queen's English and some expressions are local, which may make it a little harder to understand for Americans. (For me, I just got used to the American accent and found myself in a struggle to re-learn the school English.) People are generally friendly, but also sometimes tired of tourists, especially those they can't understand or that don't understand them. There is a slight aversion towards Americans (thank our "decider" for that), but overall it's friendly. Restaurant service is more European since staff doesn't have to live off tips and actually gets paid a salary.
The natural resources inspire a lot of sports activities and it shows in a generally healthy appearance of both residents and most sports fanatic visitors. In fact, with 220 lbs at 6'1" I certainly felt relatively huge around the waist line while in the US I would blend into the average. (The high prices at restaurants, relatively restricted use of flavor enhancers, and perfect weather for activity being the main conditions.)
PICTURES
http://outdoors.webshots.com/album/557924558MSeojH
BY LOCATION
Rotorua: [*****] First station of our journey, Rotorua turned out to be one of our favorite places as well. A spiritual center of the Maori, the revitalized culture of the Polynesian immigrants from over 1000 years ago, show villages bring the culture, customs and style of yesteryears back to life. Our hosts suggested the Mitai as one of the most authentic local Maori performances, and we certainly enjoyed it very much. The surroundings are marked by the geothermal activities related to the joining point of two tectonic plates. Volcanic activity in 1886 may have destroyed the legendary Pink & White Terraces, but Wai-O-Tapu and Waimangu are still worth the visit. Especially the volcanic valley Waimangu left us impressed with easily accessible evidence of geo-tectonic activity. (The buried village displays evidence of the 1886 disaster, but it also shows the Maori were almost completely converted to Western life style.)
www.rotoruanz.com
Napier: [****-] As a result of a tragic earth quake in 1931, the reconstruction is reason for a uniformly ArtDeco style of the city center and renowned for it’s architectural sights. It’s also a well-developed commercial center with a growing wine industry and related tours. The National Aquarium was less impressive as it’s small and the only really interesting feature is the Kiwi room which allows to view the nocturnal bird in its "natural" environment.
www.napier.govt.nz
Wellington: [****-] The capital is a small but busy town. With more high-rise buildings, it's not very quaint and tight alleys a stark contrast to the vast nature surrounding the city. Other than being the government seat, Wellington offers a huge variety of restaurants and it's hard to make a decision in light of the choices. We stayed on Cuba Street and arts festivals seem to be numerous in Summer. We didn't have time to visit Te Papa, a modern museum for contemporary and historic New Zealand.
www.wellingtonnz.com
InterIslander: [*****] Aside from technicalities like reservation and ticket prices, the ride on the main connection between the two islands is an attraction in itself. The deck provides stunning views mainly in the first 15 minutes of the ride (Wellington harbor and surroundings) and the last hour (Queen Charlotte Sound) of the overall over three hour voyage. In our case the ferry was less than 50% full (passengers), though I cannot judge the parking deck which may be advisable to make reservations. Seating is very comfortable and a bar and restaurant keep you nourished. If you're planning to take a rental car onto the ferry, please check with your rental agency if it's allowed. (There is a rental car drop off right at the terminal.)
www.interislander.co.nz
Kaikoura: [*****] This town has fallen into despair with the prohibition of whaling in the early 20th century and became a picture example for a thriving economy based on local resources ... namely the geographical specialty that makes the coast line a main feeding ground for whales. Boat tours to watch the whales are a popular activity, and the whole town revolves around this theme. Take the sea sickness warning seriously when boarding a vessel. It may not strike everybody, but our "strong sea sickness warning" sure wasn't without merit. Besides the obvious, there is also a seal colony at the Point and an albatross colony as well. The local crayfish (lobster) is a popular albeit expensive specialty. The drive to and from Kaikoura offers a stunning coast line with the road closely hugging the shore.
www.kaikoura.co.nz
Christchurch: [****-] The garden city presented us with the only two days of actually bad weather (below 20C and rainy). Yet, this city provides plenty opportunities for entertainment. The world known picture of the church by the same name is only a small part of the attractions and Antarctic center as well as a stroll through town are nice enough to enjoy a "break" from the otherwise nature centered attractions. Overall, we didn't spend much time in any city and neither was Christchurch any different. (We actually visited a friend and sightseeing was less of a priority.)
www.christchurch.org.nz
TranzAlpine: [***--] The scenic train ride from Christchurch to Arthur's Pass is a great day trip to see the surrounding Alps without having to drive the distance. The wagons are reasonably modern and comfortable, but both suspension and rails make for a bumpy ride. In fact the train's speed combined with the uneven track make attempts of photography relatively hard. Take plenty of duplicates as being thrown around is a tough basis when choosing the right composition (secure the camera to your body). Arthur's Pass provides plenty opportunity for hiking and the Kea bird was very present. Despite the warning not to feed them, tourists often enjoy the mischievous character and the colorful feathers when defending food. Arthur's Pass is a nice compromise for a daytrip, while Greymouth would require to stay over night to have any time off the train.
www.tranzalpine.co.nz
Lake Tekapo: [***--] Pictures often show this lake with a bed of lupines somewhere, but you will have a hard time to find the flowers anymore. Apparently despite its beauty this imported plant has a destructive effect on the native environment in NZ and the state is taking measures to remove them in problem areas. While still plenty along the road, we found none near the lake, despite a draining drive on the gravel road to access the back parts of the lake.
www.laketekapountouched.co.nz
Mount Cook: [****-] The tallest mountain is a majestic treat for your eyes from almost any distance (within visible range). Be it the highland Salmon Farm, the canal or simply driven from Lake Tekapo, the eternal ice cap is a wonderful backdrop. Unfortunately we didn't have time to explore the mountain itself, as it provides excellent opportunities for mountain hiking. The Franz-Josef-Glacier is probably best reached via helicopter if you don't have time. Twizel is a near-by settlement that was purpose built for the construction of the hydro dams and later taken over by tourism. It's a good basis for further exploration of Mount Cook, though restaurants are limited. Another rare bird, the Black Stilt reservation, is only accessible twice a day with a guide.
www.alpineguides.co.nz
Salmon Farm: [*****] The man made canal between lake Tekapo and lake Pukaki is home to several salmon farms that take advantage of the fast-moving clear water. The steady stream keeps the fish healthier and the sample of cold smoked salmon was simply delicious. An added fun activity is feeding the fish (with provided pellets). The water is virtually boiling of salmon trying to get to the food first.
Kawarau Gorge: [****-] A welcome stop on our transfer from Twizel to Te Anau, the mining center holds artifacts of a Chinese settlement of gold diggers which then was taken over by European settlers and their "advanced" technology. The massive mining took its toll on the river shore and massive erosion is visible. Nevertheless, you too can search for gold and keep the dream alive. While that didn't work for us, the jet boating is fun of a different kind and also available. Nearby Cromwell is less interesting as the historic part is very small and realistically doesn't offer too much if you have seen sites from the 19th century before.
www.cromwell.org.nz/gorge.asp
Te Anau: [*****] This town with roughly 4000 permanent residents has seen rapid growth since the completion of the Milford road. It's an excellent base for exploring the attractions of the fiord land national park (Milford and Doubtful Sound). Two hours closer than the popular Queenstown, travel time is convenient and focus on the sights much easier. It's a quiet town and restaurants a little limited, but otherwise very nice.
www.fiordland.org.nz
Milford Sound: [*****] Might as well be considered the pinnacle of NZ's nature tourism with its signature Mitre Peak is one of the best recognized sights of New Zealand. Such fame combined with easy access by car or bus makes for a busy place. Pick an early time for your cruise to dodge the numerous busses bringing a true wave of tourists. Unlike Doubtful Sound, there are a few snow-capped mountains visible near Milford even in late Summer (February). Seals are a familiar sight and penguins rare (from the boat). The drive to the sound is equally as impressive. To keep it enjoyable, insect repellant might be a good companion on this trip.
www.fiordland.org.nz
Doubtful Sound: [*****] Limited access naturally reduces the number of visitors, and the only way to see it is by a combined boat and bus tour (NZD264.-pp). The ten hour journey is tightly organized and the sight very enjoyable. The boat ride is different enough to recommend it to everybody, even if you've seen Milford Sound already. However, the bus ride was the low point as its main purpose is to get you from boat to boat. We would have liked to have more freedom to explore the moos garden and water falls. Insect repellent is highly recommended on this trip to tame the sand flies.
www.realjourneys.co.nz/Main/Doubtful
Glowworm caves: [*****] Te Anau sports one of the youngest caves with "only" 18,000 years. Discovered in the 1950s, the accessible portion is relatively short and most of it is via boat. The glowworms are a special attraction resembling a galaxy of stars in a quiet boat ride. We managed to make this our last activity on Valentine's Day (20:15 - 22:20), and was a truly romantic experience. Be prepared to share your moments with a large group, but the galaxy of bright turquoise dots is a great experience.
www.realjourneys.co.nz/Main/TeAnau
Queenstown: [****-] The busiest small town on our trip is also the adventure capital of the "world" where bungee jumping and jet boating first found commercial use. The average tourist age is notably younger than previous places we've been to. Thrill seekers pretty much never run out of things to do. With us being 5 months pregnant, the milder adventure was more our style -- like the skyline gondola, luge and the underwater observatory. There are plenty good and diverse restaurants, but it's also busier and noisier than most places.
www.queenstown-nz.co.nz
Paihia: [****-] Most famous for the Waitangi treaty grounds which in 1840 were the site for the Maori signing a contract with England for protection (as a colony). Though it's not embraced by all Maori, it also shows that the violent background of tribal disputes was a fertile ground for such a "request" for protection. Other attractions include swimming with dolphins or simply any boat tour in the bay of island or charming beach fronts like Russel.
www.paihia.co.nz
Waipoua forest: [****-] The size is impressive. Their age is hard to comprehend. The Kauri trees were once numerous on New Zealand, and settlers valued the wood for its warm tones and the gum for numerous applications. Yet, the popularity was in strong contrast of the tree's slowing growth and soon, the remaining forest had to be protected. Today, the remaining trees are still impressive, and the largest tree currently alive in over 6 meters in diameter and roughly 2000 years old. (The largest recorded is somewhere over 8 m in diameter.) The Kauri museum in Matakohe is worth a visit if you want to know more about the Kauri tree and especially its history and the near extinction.
communities.co.nz/WaipouaForest
Auckland: [***--] For us, Auckland was simply a city with an airport. If you're looking for large variety of cultural activities, this is your place. It's not the place to practice driving on the left side, especially not going towards Northland since you would have to make your way through the city as the motorway isn't continuous.
Note: AKL airport charges a departure fee of 25.- (NZD) per person, which needs to be paid at the Bank of New Zealand. It's conveniently located next to the first security for international departure.
www.aucklandnz.com
TRANSPORTATION
Driving in NZ happens on the wrong ... errr, I mean Left ... side of the road. So same rules as UK and Japan or Australia apply and for everybody else that means to use special caution when driving. Fortunately the roundabouts (traffic circles) make it easy to get the right of way straight. The most critical phase is actually a day or two after you first started driving on the other side, since gained confidence may not have a solid foundation yet. It sure helps to have passengers that keep an eye on the road as well. I would recommend to stay out of heavy city traffic for the first few days until you're more secure. (i.e. Christchurch or Auckland)
Overall navigation is simple in most cities and especially easy in the country where there is often only one road and the chance to take the wrong turn relatively low. Maps are provided for free in any of the numerous i-Site (information) centers. However, you might opt for the official street atlas for convenience. Driving distances in minutes are typically much longer than the metric distance may suggest. The reason is in the steep and winding roads that often allow for an average speed of no more than 60 km/h. It makes for good planning to allow roughly 1 minute for each kilometer to travel. Speed limit is 100 km/h on the motorway and highway. While generally 50 km/h in town, motorways are often only reduced to 70 or 80 km/h and not always are signs available.
Rental cars: [****-] Making reservations from home is suggested, though prices are significantly higher due to the newer fleet of the "established" international providers. We used Budget and Advantage but also a local provider called NZ Rent-a-Car (apparently not affiliated with Budget Rent-A-Car). The latter was relatively cheap despite the one-way fee of $50. However, the savings come at the expense of the provided car (8 years old, 150,000 km, worn-out dampers and sure not a looker). The last two days we had the best deal due to dropping it off in the same place: Auckland. But also due to the fact that Advantage is not in the airport and a shuttle is needed.
Train: [***--] We only took a scenic train from Christchurch to Arthur's Pass. It's expensive from a day trip perspective, but given the covered mileage and comfort worth the money (and cheaper than taking a train for the same distance in Germany). However, it's a rather bumpy ride and despite the provided open platform not easy to take pictures. Expect to be thrown around and make use of the rapid fire of your camera to increase chances for a good picture. Overall comfort is good and while not reaching the ride comfort of trains in Germany, it's a slight step up from the scenic rides in the US (especially Great Smokey Mountains Railway).
Ferry: [*****] The only way to travel from the North island to the South other than by air is the Ferry. It's supposedly recommended to book (and pay) ahead of time, though for us that wasn't that easy. The problem turned out to be my spam filter as we booked online, but that's something to watch out for if the tickets are delivered by e-mail. The ferry wasn't crowded and pre-booking is most likely applicable for those wanting to take the car. When renting a vehicle, be aware that many rental cars cannot be taken on the ferry and those that can are typically on the expensive side. The ferry terminal, however, has rental car offices and it's easy enough other than carrying all your luggage. (The ferry allows to check you large pieces for the ride.)
Air: [*****] To save time on our whirlwind tour, we chose to fly from the South Island to Auckland. Queenstown turned out to be the best airport to do so, as driving back would have cost us 2 days and the expenses for the Ferry etc.. Anyway, we booked on Qantas, though NewZealand Air was also available. The decision point was simply the price by bundling things together. The airport in Queenstown is small but nice and the flight took roughly two hours back to Auckland. (Much faster than the 2 - 3 days it would have taken to get back by car and ferry.) To NZ, the only viable way is by air and Qantas turned out to be a great carrier. (A sensor problem on the way back extended our trip by a day but measures were automatically taken by the airline to rebook our connection and provide hotel and transportation as well as food the the company's expense. Great example in light of the recent JetBlue scandal.)
WE WISH WE DID
We wish we had more time (and money) to see more or at least be in less of a rush. Poor Knights Island and Dunedin were two of the main attraction we were unable to fit in. However, in the end it all becomes also a monetary question, and for now we certainly got a good impression and made marks on sites for a possible return.
To see NZ in two weeks requires tight planning and booking hotel, car and attractions ahead of time is the best way to ensure you remain on track.
FUN FACTS
Aotearoa: Initially the Maori apparently only called the North island by that name, but today it's generally accepted as the native name for the whole country. Hence, Aotearoa = New Zealand (on many souvenirs both names appear.) This is not to be confused with Ao-tea (White Cloud), which today describes the Great Barrier Island ... the first sight of the Maori. Aotea-roa (Long white cloud) simply describes the main island. In essence, Aotea Waka is the name of the canoe (waka) that brought the Polynesian Tainui tribe roughly 1000 years ago to the island.
Kiwi: This can describe any of the three: a fruit, a New Zealander, or a native bird. The latter is nocturnal, flightless and its nostrils provide the Kiwi bird with an excellent sense of smell. Most amazing are the egg which reach 20% of the hen's size. In human terms that's equivalent to a 30 - 50 pound baby!
Mail: The official NZ Post and other carriers like Universal Mail and DX-Mail are theoretically honoring each other's stamps and should transfer any postage bearing card or letter. An apparent dispute between both carriers during our stay, turned into NZ Post refusing to honor Universal's postage (and sometimes DX as well). When buying stamps watch for which carrier it's from, since you may have to seek out the matching mailbox. If in doubt, stick with NZ Post stamps (the official carrier).
Long black / short white: Order a coffee and you soon will have an unusual choice. If you just want a "normal" coffee, go for the long black as it's an espresso by nature that's watered down to normal strength. The flat white, on the other hand appears to be a straight espresso with milk foam (?). An Americana is instant coffee, which neither here nor there should be called coffee anyway. ;-)
Video: PAL is the official tv standard in NZ. This matters for DVDs one might bring to the US or UK, as it's not compatible with the NTSC format in those countries. Further, DRM (digital rights management) is also likely to prevent playing DVDs with the region code 4 (Australasia) anywhere else. There are a select few tourism videos available that sport hold both PAL / NTSC content and are coded for worldwide use (region 0).
Cars: With Japanese and European manufacturers dominating the streets of NZ, there is also an established trade of used cars from Japan to NZ. Due to high upkeep cost in Nippon for "old" cars, it's common to export used cars and typically visitors will find them at the low-budget rental agencies (but also Advantage).
Southern sky: If you grew up in the Northern hemisphere, it might surprise you that the sun at noon is in a North position (rather than South). This is due to equator position. It still rises in the East and sets in the West. Of course, this equates to the sun "moving" counterclockwise. It shouldn't be a surprise that the stars are different too.
Wildlife: New Zealand is not home to any predators like lions, crocodiles or tarantulas. (Exception: A white spider with a poison similar to a brown recluse.) However, with 92% of mammals imported by settlers, many 'harmless' species like (60 million) merino possums, deer and stoaks wreak havoc on NZ's native flora and fauna such as the kiwi bird. (The only known mammal native to NZ is a bat.)
Wool: With sheep outnumbering New Zealand's people ten to one, the wool is one of the major income sources. Exported mostly for carpets etc., local business also thrives around clothing especially when the wool is combined with about 40% Merino possum. (Not cheap!)
Jade: Souvenirs made of Greenstone (a.k.a. nephrite jade) have their roots in the Maori culture. Fish hooks and stylized fern are popular motives. The infinity symbol is a modern addition, but popular nevertheless. Due to a cap in production volume from the native Greenstone, most items in stores are actually from China, Columbia and other countries. NZ native jade often shows typical speckles which apparently don't reduce its value since color, transparency and uniformity are the main factors. Pounamu is the Maori term for nephrite jade.
www.gemstone.org/gem-by-gem/english/jade.html
Didymo: You will see this quite often in the Southern part. The name belongs to an algy which NZ is trying to prevent from spreading. This is especially important as any water sports involving different water bodies (incl. fishing) require special caution (cleaning gear).
Preservation: Maori culture is strongly tied to the respect of Mother Nature, but English (and American) influence may be the reason for a recycling system that's just in its infancy. Unlike mentioned industry nations, there is currently an effort to design more meaningful measures like reusable liquid containers etc. (much like EU suggestions). Strong measures are being taken to provide protection to rare species and large parts of the national parks are inaccessible to tourism. Global warming is acknowledged in NZ and reduction in energy consumption an accepted path to reduce our impact.
Identity: Still tied closely to the UK, a large number of visitors from the island as well as the famous oversea experience of most Kiwi (a prolonged time abroad) and kingdom centric news may strengthen the bond. (It's also easier to work in UK or Australia as Kiwis don't need a visa.) NZ is a melting pot for many nationalities and American products dominate the stores (Coke, Starbucks) alongside German stuff (Persil, Holden). Overall, Kiwis consider NZ as an independent nation and are mostly proud of it. Problems in educational system, healthcare and growth potential in local jobs are talking points.
Immigration: New Zealand is craving qualified personnel. Further, jobs oversees are often considered more lucrative for Kiwis, and it's not uncommon for the younger generation to leave the country at least for some time. To help mitigate the shortage annually 50,000 residency visa are given to professionals (health care, IT, hospitality, civil engineering etc.). Unlike the US, residency here is time limited to typically 1 - 2 years and requires renewal.
Tourism: It's no secret that NZ is a major tourism spot -- yet somewhat exclusive. When traveling, we noticed that there are two main groups of visitors. Backpackers in their late teens or twenties contrast travelers around retirement age. Oddly enough, tourists in their 30s and 40s play a small part. (Family, job, kids, and mortgage may be some of the underlying reasons.)
Aged persons: In some areas you might come across these (yellow) street signs. But don't worry, it only cautions you to look out for elderly people crossing the road (and use special caution).
© 2007, theuerkorn
Recommended:
Yes
Best Suited For: Couples
Best Time to Travel Here: Dec - Feb
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