All the Cliches are TRUE
Written: Apr 25 '03
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Product Rating:
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Pros: Depends on your personality
Cons: See above
The Bottom Line: Lose all your pre-conceived ideas at home! and don't read the paper!
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| alek_toronto's Full Review: Rio de Janeiro |
Rio de Janeiro has always been one of those places that writers love to write about. Depending on what you read it could be excellent (Fodors, Frommers, etc..) or scary (newspapers, Time, Economist, etc..)
After all the research I did prior to my trip I can suggest only one thing - Arm yourself with a few pre-trip tidbits, sunscreen, visa and just go. DO NOT read the papers or believe the hysteria (it will just cloud your judgement).
Rio tends to get very mixed press. To some it is paradise, to some hell. Now we all know that Brazil is a Very poor country, but common sense and some information will ensure that you will never have problems on your trip and believe me after you are there for a few days you will forget everything that you heard.
the Nitty Gritty
Documents:
All American and Canadian citizens require a valid passport and VISA to enter Brazil. The Visa takes 10 business days to process however so do it in advance. A hassle to be sure, however once you get the Visa it is good for multiple entries for 5 YEARS. So if you fall in love with Brazil (like I did) you can keep going back!
Getting There:
Recently Rio has lost a lot of airline service but there is still choice. From the US, you can fly with American Airlines from Miami, Continental from Houston and United from Miami, Chicago or Washington DC. From Europe, there is British Airways, Air France, KLM and Swissair. All other airline routings go through Sao Paulo (try to avoid that if you can) the connection is a MAJOR hassle and sometimes adds over 5-6 hours to the travel time. Use the Brazilian carrier VARIG only if you are desperate, crazy or both. See my previous review to get an idea. (that is depending on how long they last)
Arrival:
Rio has a pretty modern airport if not efficient. You have 2 basic options to get to town. If you can afford it take the radio taxi. Its direct, comfortable and not too expensive. The airport bus is cheaper but takes much longer and depending where your hotel is will make lots of stops along the way. Taxi drivers are fun, and crazy if you are not used to Latin/Italian/Spanish driving. But not once did I feel scared. Sure the highway goes through the poor favelas, but once you hit the beach it will have all been worth it!
Areas of Rio:
These are solely MY impressions of the districts of Rio with pros and cons.
Copacabana
the most well known area and most touristed. this is the neighbourhood everyone hears and knows about.
Pros: lots of hotels, restaurants, bars and services
Cons: lots of tourists and the scum they attract, dirtier than other areas, more crowded.
Ipanema
After Copacabana, the next area tourists know about. more sedate beach and a more upscale yet bohemian feel (its true!)
pros: nicest beach, best looking locals, safer
cons: less hotels, more expensive
Leblon
This is a mostly residential area with condos and apartments - this is where wealthy cariocas live
pros: quiet, chic, no tourists
cons: expensive, quiet, less restaurants (but better ones), shops
Barra
This is the most modern up to date part of Rio. At one point it was very popular but now basically a large mall with expensive condos and homes - very South Florida feeling.
pros: shopping
cons: expensive, far from everything
CRIME:
Yes - if you believe all the statistic and hype RIO is more dangerous than London, New York or Los Angeles, however what you need to know is the following:
1. Practically all crime takes place in the poor areas and is between locals. Crimes against visitors is limited to pickpocketing and mugging. Staying in the Copacabana/Ipanema/Leblon areas is safe. Not once did I see any problems.
2. Common sense. Just try to blend in (leave the New York Yankees T Shirt and Tiffany necklace at home) buy some local clothes (they are cheap) and nobody will bother you.
We walked everywhere and used local buses. And on top of being safe (during the day) they are a lot of fun. More fun than the local rollercoaster in fact. I loved Rio buses and they are cheap and go everywhere. If you miss one, another one comes in 2 mins.
ATTRACTIONS:
there are only a few actual places you need to go. Rio is primarily a beach, shop and eat kinda place.
Be warned: If you are the historical traveller or just very restless Rio might not be your thing. The best part is just sitting on the beach and people watching. I swear every person in Rio has a different skin colour. A lot has been made of the "beautiful" bodies. The truth, however, is better actually. You will see every shape and size of body on the beach here from mini to jumbo, no matter your shape you will fit in - everyone does. Contrary to what you might think or hear - not everyone here is a god(ess) in a thong.
Beaches - my favorite beaches were Leblon and Ipanema. Quieter and mostly locals. Copacabana is nice as well, clean with lots happening however more touristed. Beaches are always busy, but best time is sunday when Carioca families come out to play.
Two sites you want to do (yes they are cliches - but amazing) are Sugar Loaf and Christ Statue. Highlight of both is the view of beautiful Rio, however getting to both is half the fun. sugar Loaf by cable car and Christ by cog-train. Best to do Sugar Loaf at dusk to see the bright city lights turn on and Christ in the morning. Whatever you do, make sure it is clear though!
ACCOMMODATIONS:
There are 2 options in Rio. Either hotels or rental apartments. Here are my recommedations (not meant to be comprehensive)
If you have money to burn: COBACABANA PALACE. This was the place to stay for the money folk. It is still nice after all these years and attracts a lot of tourists. Facilities and service second to none. Nice spacious rooms and the pool are the highlights.
If you like boutique (designer) hotels: The MARINA ALL SUITES. This is currently the only designer style hotel in Rio. Located in the quiet Leblon area - this hotel is located on the beach and most of the nice rooms look over the ocean. There is a rooftop pool area and cinema. Bonus is the inhouse restaurant - BAR D'Hotel -this is currently the "in" place where all the fabulous people go. It is expensive but the food is excellent.
Finally if you are on a budget: Do as I did and book a stay at an apart-hotel. Not only is it cheap, but you get a larger room, a kitchen and a living room. The apart-hotels do not attract a lot of attention and the service is good with all the amenities such as maid cleaning and continental breakfast. My favorite was LEBLON OCEAN. Located in a quiet residential area. No tourists and only locals. Best of all the rate was cheaper than the regular hotels.
FOOD:
Lots of choice here. You will never starve in Rio. Everything from cheap juice snack stands to high end upscale places. All that matters is your budget. to get the scoop just visit either Fodors or Frommers.
Good Snack Place: Any Suco "Juice" Bar, there are plenty of them all around. BIBI SUCO is the most reliable.
Good ice cream can be found at BABUSKA (Locations all over RIO).
Good midrange places: ATULFO in Leblon has lots of choice and is a cafe and restaurant. Good place for desert as well. POLLO GUAPO is a mexican place with tasty tacos, enchilladas, etc..
High-end: Cariocas like fine food and it shows..where to start. Keep in mind that even an expensive restaurant in Rio is still very reasonable compared to North American or more so European cities.
SATYRICON for amazing seafood, LEBLON SUSHI for Japanese, GARCIA AND RODRIGUES for amazing French/Brazilian, BAR D'Hotel for trendy fusion and CASA da FEIJOADA to sample the traditional Brazilian dish.
BARS/CLUBS:
the inspots of the moment are MELT and BARDOT. MELT is open everyday and has a ground floor restaurant and second floor dance floor. BARDOT is primarily a bar/lounge. Both these places are populated mainly by well off Cariocas. To keep it real try one of the numerous local hole in the wall pubs or bars along the main streets. Local beer is cheap as is the national drink - caipirha (potent buggers)
AVOID HELP Nightclub -- it hasn't been "in" in years and now attracts only old guys and the young prostitutes that sucker them.
LEAVING:
The saying is I left my heart in San Francisco - I could say the same about Rio. Despite its massive social problems, I fell in love with this city and its people and will be back.
Recommended:
Yes
Best Suited For: Friends
Best Time to Travel Here: Anytime
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Epinions.com ID:
alek_toronto
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Location: Toronto, Canada
Reviews written: 41
Trusted by: 4 members
About Me:
Crazy Canadian Travel and Culture Fiend.
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