Zagreb - survival guide for young people - revisted
Written: Aug 17 '02 (Updated Aug 17 '02)
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Product Rating:
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Pros: sights, food, people, peacefull after midnight
Cons: peacefull after midnight
The Bottom Line: If you are looking for great parties or unforgettable fun you better try some other city. f not - I strongly reccomend Zagreb.
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| mahuna's Full Review: Zagreb |
Introduction
My first review of Zagreb and on this site ( as I expected ) went down in flames and because Zagreb is my home town I decided that it would be best to press "delete" and "yes, I'm sure" and start all over again with much more details. So here it goes.
Not what you expect
Zagreb, in my humble opinion is one of the most beautiful cities in Eastern Europe. I know that if you are not from eastern Europe, you must have certain image in your head when thinking of people and cities in this region. I assure you, we have TV, radio, cars, mobile phones, computers and all other wonderful things you could find in your part of the world. Trust me, there isn't any danger of infecting yourself with dangerous dieses. So as you see, there is anything that stops you from visiting this lovely town.
Parties? We don't need no stinking parties!
A word of caution: If you are looking for great parties or unforgettable fun you better try some other country altogether. I'm not saying that Zagreb and Croatia are not worth seeing, I just think it better for you, dear reader, to know what you can expect. If you are under 30 or you feel like one, this text will ( hopefully ) help you to "survive" and enjoy your few days in Zagreb.
History
Zagreb has grown out of two medieval settlements (called Gradec and Kaptol ) on neighboring hills.Both the settlements were surrounded by high walls and towers, remains of which are still preserved. The first written mention of the city dates from 1094. The name Zagreb, is speculation of many legends. One legend speaks of a girl called Manda who gave water to thirsty soldiers ( in rough translation picking up water in Croatian is - "zagrabiti" ). Accidentally, one fountain on main square of Zagreb is called "Mandusevac", presumably for "Manda". During the Turkish onslaughts on Europe, between the 14th and 18th centuries, Zagreb was an important border fortress. The Baroque reconstruction of the city in the 17th and 18th centuries changed the appearance of the city. When Croatia achieved independence in 1991, Zagreb became a capital - a political and administrative centre for the Republic of Croatia. In 1957 construction of new housing blocks starts on the southern bank of the Sava river. This area will soon be known as third part of the city ( first two being "Donji grad" or downtown and "Gornji grad" or "Kaptol" - upper town ), called " Novi Zagreb" or "New Zagreb".
Getting there ( here )
Airport ( http://www.tel.hr/zagreb-airport/indexen.html ) is located 17 km from the centre of the city, or 20-25 minutes by bus. In addition to the national carrier, Croatia Airlines, there are regular flights by Lufthansa, Swissair, SAS, Air France, British Airways, CSA, Aeroflot, LOT, Malaysia Airlines and Austrian Airlines.I don't know about quality of other services but "Croatia Airlines" just received award for best food on planes ( I'm not working for this company ) in the world. The main railway station is located in the centre of the City (at Kralj Tomislav Square 12, a ten minutes walk from the central city square). As far as I know there are daily international lines from Munich (Euro City Mimara), Vienna (Inter City Croatia, Cibalia), Venice (Inter City Kras, Simplon, Venice), Budapest (Drava, Maestral, Agram), Paris and Geneva (Simplon), Graz (Inter City Croatia, Zagreb) and Moscow (Agram).
Accommodations
Because I live in Zagreb, I honestly don't know what kind of service you could expect of hotels in Zagreb and because you can't stay in my room ( my girlfriend would be mad ) I will try to give you very brief guide to find what you are looking for ( or you can afford ). There are three, let's say high price ( five stars ) hotels - "Opera" (formally known as "Intercontinental" ) - which is most popular with our sport stars, "Sheraton Zagreb" ( I hear is very good and not so expensive ) and "Hotel Esplanade" - very near to railway station, very old and above one of the biggest shopping centers in Zagreb. I would recommend the first two. As for mid price/range hotels you could try - Vienna(***), Panorama(****), As(****) , Jadran (***) or International (***) - but any help from me on that subject is not very likely. If you need very cheap room and don't mind sleeping on / below somebody with smelly feet ( it isn't so bad if you can get single room ) and you are student, than I recommend "Youth Hostel Ravnice" ( actually it's very nice, clean and most of all - cheap ) - www.ravnice-youth-hostel.hr
Is it safe?
Because most of European cities are fairly safe ( day and night ), I didn't think it was necessary to include this chapter in this guide, but as I just realized this isn't always true. My sister ( this is true story!!!! ) was just attacked by foreign photo-model, because she was ( my sister - not the model ) taking pictures at our main square for her school. So as it turns out you will be fairly safe in Zagreb - except of occasional attacks by mad supermodels. When I think of it sounds just like sketch from "Monty Python's Flying Circus". And now for something completely different....
Sights
In Zagreb there are few thing you must see. First of them being tower "Lotorscak" in the upper town. Tower itself was once part of wall that surrounded "Gradec". It features a great view and real, working cannon which fires every day at noon. So if you hear explosion - this is not third World War starting, it is just 12 o'clock. If you want to see this tower and the upper town, you can walk ( if you don't won't to live forever ) or by some sort of lift which takes you there every few minutes. I recommend this lift (it cost about 1$ US) because it much easier and worth seeing. Upper town, is very beautiful and full of many interesting things: gas powered laps and the man who turns them on and of -one by one every night, "Kamenita vrata" (stone gates) which is a little shrine ( people from Zagreb will never walk trough middle two posts - so remember this and you will never be treated like stranger ) and off course church of St.Marko which the symbol of Zagreb. Here you can also find Croatian government ( "Sabor" ). You also must see Cathedral which is very close. Other things you must se include - Croatian National Theater located near so called "green horseshoe" ( this is complex of 5 or 6 big parks with fountains located between main town square and railroad station built in the last two centuries ); Jarun lake -situated in the west part of the town, popularly called "Zagreb's sea"; park "Maksimir" ( rough translation - maximum peace ) - big park with the zoo and stadium; and last but not least - mountain "Medvednca" with old castle "Medved grad" ( Bear-city ).
What to eat, what to drink
People from Zagreb don't like spicy food, so if you are fan of "look-I'm-spitting-fire-and-I-love-it" kind of food - good luck. Pizza, in my opinion (and if you ever see me or my 210 pounds - you will trust this) it's great. Best pizza place is "Stara sava" near Jarun lake and "2" on upper town. For little different (also not Croatian ) food you must try "cevapi" - some sort of kebab. Also try "strukle" which is famous Croatian (at last!) dessert. If you like chocolate candies - you must try "Bajadere" or "Napolitanke" ( the best chocolate candies in the world - I'm currently hiding two boxes under my bed because I'm officially on diet). For ice-cream or cake go to "Vincek"- you will recognize it easy by the big line in front of it (on the main and longest street - Ilica). For fast food there is McDonalds (and lots of them), Subway (one) and Pingvin. If you like beer I suggest "Ozujsko" or " Tomislav" ( dark ) or go to "Pivnica Medvedgrad" and try theirs "Black queen" and "Medvedgrad". You can also eat there. For good and not expensive dinner / lunch -I suggest - "Boban" ( owner Zvonimir Boban - famous soccer player, recently member of AC Milan ) or "Leonardo" - fish, pizza or meat.
People and pubs
People from Zagreb, as you will soon find out, love their coffee. Tkalciceva street is one of the most famous meeting places in Zagreb. Here you can sit, drink your coffee for entire day ( for only 8 kunas - about 1$ ) and watch people as they walk by. And this is the most interesting thing - girls in Croatia are beautiful ( it's in the water ) and always dress to kill. If you are a guy, also don't miss "Cvjetni trg" (flower square ) - don't worry, there isn't any flowers here (only in shops - to be honest), only girls walking. Also In Croatia is illegal to serve drinks to people under the age of 18 but I don't think that someone would actually ask you your age. So if you look 18 go to "Tolkien house" in the upper town and enjoy everything the hobbits and elves do. In the same building you can also have a great cocktail in "Indy's" or go to"Kadenca bar" in the downtown. You can also go to "Hard Rock Caffe" ( not official Hard Rock Cafe ) to see signed guitar by Page & Plant of "Led Zeppelin".There you can also listen to some great live bands playing mostly American rock or pop music. If you don't like that kind of music you can always go to "Sax!" for some jazz. Previously mentioned "Boban" it's great place for coffee. If you like Irish beer go to "Old Pharmacy Pub" ,"Oliver Twist" or "Hole in one pub"
... and here lies the problem
Most of this bars work only until 11PM ( because of some stupid law) - except for "Indy's" and few bars near him. So if your 5th coffee has just kicked in and you are not tired you are in lots of trouble. There are only few solutions - you could and should try "Aquarius" club on the shore of Jarun Lake. It's very small club but with good atmosphere http://www.aquarius.hr/club.html . Bigger (but not necessarily better) is club called "The Best" ,located very near to the first one. The entry fee for both clubs is about 30 kunas or 4$ US. If you like crowded clubs, then try one of the oldest clubs in towns - "Saloon" which is in the center of the town. There is also club "Gjuro 2" and few others but I would recommend the first three. If you like rock music - "Jabuka" (apple) and "Tvornica" (factory) are for you. And that's about all. My suggestion is to try some bar, have a couple of drinks and pray the owner doesn't close before you are finished ( under the table ). Good luck!
My girlfriend went to Zagreb and all I got was this lousy TIE?
Yes, you heard me correctly. Croats invented the tie.Tie in Croatian is called "Kravata" ( as you see very similar to Croat or Hrvat as we are called amongst ourselves. So if you are trying to find authentic symbol from Zagreb go and find shop called "Kravata" . Croats are also inventers of tint pen ( sorry, I don't know correct English phrase for this ). It was called "Penkala" like the men who invented it. If you look hard I'm sure you will find some shop who sells them. If you are sport fanatic you could also buy a t-shirt or some memorabilia from our biggest sport clubs. One is "Cibona Zagreb" - one of the most famous ( 10 or 20 years ago ) basketball clubs in Europe. The greatest European player off all time played in "Cibona" - late Drazen Petrovic ( also member of New Jersey Nets, Real Madrid and so on and so on. Recently member of basketball "Hall of Fame"). The second club is "Dinamo Zagreb", the biggest soccer club in Croatia. Few players who played in Dinamo - Davor Suker ( best scorer on the 1998 soccer world cup in France" , Zvonimir Boban ( ex AC Milan player ) and coach Miroslav "Ciro" Blazevic .
The final thought
So as you see, Zagreb is a wonderful town and you should visit it. If you come with the girlfriend / boyfriend / wife / husband / lover or your parents you will have a great time. In any other case, you will have to look harder for something to do after the first few days or later at night. But if you succeed you will ( I guarantee you ) enjoy the town and it's people. If you ever plan to come to Zagreb, feel free to mail me ( mahuna@mail.inet.hr ) and I will give you any help / info you need. If you come to Zagreb, ( who knows ) maybe we could have a cup of coffee ( I'm mostly harmless ). So, hope to see you soon.
Few tips
If you are lost you can always use your English ( most of the younger people speak English ).
In Zagreb ( and Croatia ) you tip only on a good service.
In Croatia you can smoke almost anywhere ( you will have a hard time finding non-smoking section ).
I suggest you buy "Zagreb in your pocket" travel guide when coming here.
Few Croatian words:
"Hvala" means "Thank you"
"Molim" means "Please"
"Bok" means "Hi"
"Poljubi me" means "Kiss me"
Have a nice time in Zagreb.
Facts and figures
Location
northern Croatia, on the Sava River, about 170 km from the Adriatic Sea
situated 122 m above sea level
Time
Central-european time (GMT +1)
Climate and Weather
continental climate
average summer temperature: 20° C
average winter temperature: 1° C
Population:
about 1 200 000
Recommended:
Yes
Best Suited For: Couples
Best Time to Travel Here: Anytime
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Epinions.com ID:
mahuna
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Location: Zagreb, Croatia, Europe
Reviews written: 2
Trusted by: 0 members
About Me:
student of Croatian Dramatic Arts Academy (tv/film editor), designer, webmaster
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