RED RIVER GORGE KENTUCKY
Written: Nov 01 '02 (Updated Sep 04 '06)
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Pros: Many Developed Trails, Off-Trail Hiking, Beauty, Uniqueness, Climbing, Lodging Options, Something for Everyone
Cons: Campsites Difficult to Find, No "Developed Loops", Hikers Without Two Cars Must "Out and Back"
The Bottom Line: RRG Kentucky's Premier Backpacking, Short/Long/Rugged Hikes Abound!, Rugged Beauty, 60 miles Developed Trail, Lodge, Rock Climbing, Canoeing, Camping, Be "Daniel Boone" for a Week or Weekend
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| fwzz's Full Review: Daniel Boone National Forest |
What a trip! If only you can visit! Pictures can't do the experience justice since you would still be lacking the symphony of sound and smell and touch you will experience in this uniquely beautiful place God wondrously created! RRG is a protected geological area and Kentucky's premier backpacking location.
This area is located in the hills of eastern Kentucky about 1 hour east of Lexington. It features 1) rugged limestone cliffs approaching 200 ft, 2) 60 miles of developed trail, 3) incredible vistas, 4) deep gorges, 5)rock houses, 6) over 100 natural "rock bridges" and "lighthouses", which is the largest concentration in any given area in America, and rivaled only by Arches National Park in Utah, 7) incredible rock climbing, 8)canoeing on the Red River, 9) three car camping campsites and limitless backcountry camping, 10) a bordering state park (Natural Bridge State Park) with a great lodge (Hemlock Lodge with great food and a buffet -- if there are enough guests that day), 11) short hikes of less than a 1/2 miles to arches just of the main road for the less ambitious, 12) long day hikes, 13) simple overnight backpacking in RRG, 14) Solitude for the intermediate or experienced backpacker who can enjoy rugged "off-trail" hiking, arch seeking, and exploration in the large Clifty Wilderness, 15) remarkable fall colors.
All these activities are enjoyed in three distinct areas covering about 30 square miles: 1) Natural Bridge State Park, 2) Red River Gorge, and 3 ) Clifty Wilderness. I will take each in turn --
1) Natural Bridge State Park has 20 miles of trails (10 in number) which begin from an incredible arch which is 1/2 mile from the park lodge and headquarters. The arch is located on a ridge that stretches for a few miles. Be sure to hike the Sand Gap and Hood's Branch Trail (including the extra loop which has some incredible rock). Bring a "flashlight" of some type for your cave walk and to explore the rock houses along the trails. These 8.5 mile Sand Gap trail says allow 5 hours, but I did it in 2.5. I hiked the 20 miles and all ten trails in one long day with sore feet, but be sure to at least do the trail on top of the arch, one of the trails at the base of the arch, and walk through the cave at the base of the "balanced rock trail" and turn off your light half way through. Wow! The trails are easy to follow and since the park is so rugged and few hike the longer trails, there are few "off trail" spurs to confuse.
I hiked on a cool, wet October Day and was all by myself on all the trails. You can also take a "skylift" to the top of the bridge without hiking a step! Enjoy a great dinner and a "Hot Kentucky" (cheese over an open faced turkey sandwich) and "Derby" pie featuring pecans and chocolate chips at the lodge at the end of the day. The salad bar, soups, and home-made croutons are great, too. Two car camping sites are available, the Whittleton camp has two trails leading from it to two arches. Be sure to take the trail to the Whittleton Arch, which is very beautiful. Notice the every present "Umbrella Magnolias" which boast nearly 3ft long leaves and the wonderful hemlocks. Are there animals in the gorge? Interesting, I never saw a single animal in a week of hiking other than three or four squirrels! Usually in five minutes of Illinois hiking I see two or three deers.
Go figure.
2) The RRG has about 50 miles of trail. You can only camp 300 ft from the trail and never under a cliff, in a cave, or by the river. The idea is to "disperse" impact. This idea, however, does not seem to be working, and in the future I suspect the RRG authorities will develop required "you can only camp in these sites" hardened or graveled surface campsites sporadically developed along the trails at certain intervals like the "Mammoth Cave Trails" in western Kentucky. There are a few "developed" or what RRG calls "undeveloped" group campsites with pit toilets and several flat areas for tents, but only near the roads. As I hiked I saw many previously used campsites next to the trail -- ugly and illegal! Many left charred aluminum foil in the backcountry at their illegal sites. Come on people, get with the program! I also saw too many plastic and aluminum cans, but, thankfully, not as many as I have in other places. I think the vast majority of hikers respect this remarkable natural area with "No Trace Ethic" backcountry ethics.
With proper maps that will help you identify potential campsites or hiking with an experienced backpacking companion, you will find unmarked "trail" that lead to legal "flat ground" campsites out of sight of the trail. Which trail should you hike? They are all unique and good. Be sure to hike the Daniel Boone Trail and see the cave where he might have weathered a winter and the rare plant that only grows in the RRG. The "Rough Trail", "Auxier Ridge Trail", and the ten mile portion of the 300 mile Kentucky Danile Boone Forest Trail called the "Sheltowee Trace" that goes through the gorge are also nice. Be sure to cross the shaky swinging bridge over the Red at the end of the RRG portion of this long trail. Also take the five mile gravel road drive to the Chimney Rock Vista and the Princess Rock Arch Hike, and look over the entire gorge. About two people die each year by falling off the RRG cliffs, usually young males between 18 and 30. You will see a plaque in memory of Rob who fell off of the Princess Arch in 1990 at the age of 21, reminding hikers to watch their step. Be careful!
Which hike do I recommend? There are simply no bad choices in terms of hikes, and there are enough to fill an entire week. Create a loop off your own! Water is available in many places, and you may need to cross a stream and take your shoes off. RRG hiking means ups and downs. All the hikes I would rate as "moderate".
3) The Clifty Wildnerness is the far eastern section of RRG east of the highway. This area is very rugged and is meant to offer the hiker/backpacker a real wilderness experience in truly feral country. There are two developed trails. One is the 7.6 mile Swift Creek Trail which begins at a unique "rock bridge" over "Swift Creek" called "Rock Bridge". There are three famous arches on the way, and so the trail is also called the "Trail of the Three Arches".
The book "Hiking the Red" calls this trail a "moderate" hike. No way! It is the most difficult developed trail in the gorge by far. Many up and downs on narrow "mountain goat" terrain that follows the river for about four miles. Be careful with kids since the sometimes narrow trail skirts sheer fourty foot "drop-offs" into the creek at some points. Slippery mud, ooze, and many tree roots fill every path. This ruggedly beautiful and remarkable trail is not meant for car tourists. The only easy section is the last 1.5 miles near the road. Only intermediate dayhikers and backpackers with at least some experience should attempt it. The sign says "four hours" but it took me nearly five with no rests.
Having said this, it is not difficult trail to follow, and it is almost impossible to "get lost". The area is rugged, and, consequently, if you get off trail, you will not be able to go more than 50 ft. and your brain will tell you to turn back. Remember 1) If you have to bushwack, you know you are off trail, and 2) If you are within 20 ft of the river, you are off trail. The trail never sinks down to the river, except at the 2/3rd point when it veers directly away from the river back to the main road. There is another trail you can tack back to the road, the short "Wildcat Trail" which is easy. Be sure to also hike the short "Tower" Trail" in the northern section of the Clifty Wilderness to a remarkable monolith of rock just north of the paved mountain road that encircles the gorge.
I felt like I was walking in prehistoric woods rather than a midwestern forest. The area is dark -- dark leaves, dark moss, dark rocks, dark cliffs, dark canyons, filled with a ghostly mist on cold fall days, primeval in feel, with a symphony of dripping water, stream churlings, and wild birds. Rock houses and high and towering cliffs abound. Wow! I can't wait to go back and explore the even more remote north portions and the portions east of the Swift Creek.
Resources include 1) the Sierra Club book published in 2000 called "Hiking the Red", 2) the far more detailed 1986 book "Kentucky's Land of the Arches" written by the Univ. of Cincinnati Propessor Ruchhoft, which wisely includes trail descriptions in both directions on separate pages (great idea!), 3) the DVD "Arches of the Red River Gorge" which has numerous pictures of 52 of the arches (many hard to find and off trail) and their Long/Lat. GPS locations on a map that appears on your TV, and 4) the wonderful maps (RRG divided into 5 areas) made by outrageGIS.com with the better UTM GPS grid, off-trail campsites, altitude information, and detailed 1 to 12,000 areas -- these are great maps for only 12.99 and the ones I would take with under plastic!
All these can be purchases locally either at the Daniel Boone Gift shop near the gorge or the Slade Shell Station. Another resource -- 5) a 1 to 24,00 topo map of the entire RRG Area with official trails published by the Forest Ranger Office and which can be ordered by mail directly from them, which weighs three ounces, but only use this map as a reference at home or in the car, since it is to big and unwieldy to take on the hike, and is without grids or UTM.
Be sure to cover your maps (or better yet small sections of maps that your are hiking) in soft plastic that can be rolled up into your pocket! Even waterproof maps fall apart. Even if it is sunny, you will finish your hike drenched! Why? The trails are lined with the ubiquitous dark leaved "Rhodendrum" trees with leaves that may hold water from a previous day of rain. Stream crossings and low ground are filled with black muddy oozes. If you don't want to get wet, you may need rain pants. I hiked through five days of Kentucky rain when the weather predicted two days of rain at most! Be prepared for rain, especially in the Fall. Summer is hot. Spring is very nice.
Bring a pencil, a flashlight (at least bring a .2 ounce Photon Two!), and a plastic sealed map. Bring a flashlight to explore rockhouses and caves. If unexpected emergencies arise, remember, you may also get caught out over night, and will need some light. Also, bring a small pencil since at the trail entrance points to Clifty wilderness you are asked to check in for your safety at a wooden box with cards, but you must have a writing implement. You can also make notes for future use. Take note -- you will also need a car tag if you plan to park your car overnight in the backpacker's lot, which tag (1, 3, or 7 day) can be purchased for few dollars at the Shell Station.
Remember, leave only footprints and take only memories! By the way, if you want to have some fun, buy a "Daniel Boone" Coon Hat at the local tourist store and wear it on your day hike to get more than a few stares during the day!
Recommended:
Yes
Best time to go: Anytime
Recommended for: Anybody
Review Topic: Hiking & Trails
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Epinions.com ID:
fwzz
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Reviews written: 12
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