Balthazar has Staying Power!
Written: Nov 17 '00
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Product Rating:
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Pros: A deliciously simple French brasserie
Cons: Long, long, long waits
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| theclaw's Full Review: Balthazar |
Balthazar, located in the heart of the SoHo district of Manhattan, opened shortly before I moved to New York City. Since I was introduced to this fantastically authentic French brasserie, I've come to depend on Balthazar year in and year out for consistently good weekend brunches, deceptively simple French fare, and the enticing tarts, breads and other treats from the adjoining bakery. I've also come to expect long waits amid seas of people, tight seating and a high level of ambient noise.
PREPARE TO WAIT
As you approach the bright red awning overhanging Balthazar's entrance on Spring Street, you can already see the crowds of people through the window. Many of them, apparently, have reservations although I've never been able to figure out how to actually navigate Balthazar's telephone system in order to get to the reservation line. From my experience, seatings for two are the most difficult to secure while tables for four have been much easier.
In the past (and I almost hesitate to reveal this!), the best times for weekend walk-ins are around the Christmas holidays or the peak months of summer, when many New Yorkers are out of town. Actually, the last time I dined at Balthazar was the night of Game 1 of this year's "Subway Series", and the place was deserted.
THE CROWD
Balthazar is a crowded place. It's a rather large room with high ceilings, but the tables are very close to one another and standing while you wait is difficult with waiters and busboys zooming buy with oversized trays. If you can secure a seat at the bar, DO SO as it is nearly impossible. Balthazar has a lively bar scene despite the cramped quarters for a reason: they make some of the best cocktails in New York City. I have found the bartenders very knowledgeable and even friendly, while their selection of spirits is complete.
Despite offers from the host/hostess, avoid the tables immediately surrounding the bar. Otherwise you're likely to find the patrons invading your space with noise and smoke and risk having a drink spilled in your lap.
SERVICE
I have always found the waitstaff at Balthazar to be friendly and hospitable. This extends to the busboys who clear your table, serve your water and deliver your meal. At times they *do* seem a bit overextended, which I guess is to be expected given the sheer number of tables in the room. But this is compensated for by the staff's graciousness and courtesy.
FOOD
Balthazar should have something for everybody, with a wonderful menu and specials of the day that change from time to time. I always make it a point to sample their raw bar, which features very high-quality fare (some patrons opt for the complete selection of raw bar items, served in a multi-tiered tower of seafood).
Perhaps my favorite dish at Balthazar is the wonderfully simple Steak Frites, with *delicious* fries (I can't emphasize this enough) and flavored butter and herbs atop your steak. Other highlights include the Crab and Squash Risotto, Braised Veal Cheeks with Polenta (special of the day) and the Duck Shepherd's Pie. A Lobster Bisque was rich and flavorful, and Balthazar also features an excellent dessert menu (again, I usually opt for simplicity with a creme brulee). In addition, a good selection of fine digestifs helps to round out the evening.
The brunch menu features a nice array of standard brunch fare, but make sure you don't miss out on the $10 bread basket featuring some of the finest selections from the Balthazar bakery next door. Note that they *do* run out of the breads, especially later in the day.
While their selection of wines by the glass is rather limited (and doesn't change, as far as I can tell), Balthazar features a vast cellar of some very interesting bottles, many fairly-priced.
CONCLUSION
It's comforting to know there is a place like Balthazar in this city. Despite its unending trendiness, the celebrity sightings and the crowds, Balthazar has not forgotten the most important thing about running a restaurant -- good food. It's simple, relatively inexpensive, but mostly delicious and very dependable. If you can bear the waits, you'll be rewarded by a truly French experience.
Recommended:
Yes
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Epinions.com ID:
theclaw
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Reviews written: 17
Trusted by: 5 members
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