In the footsteps of Dracula
Aug 24 '09
The Bottom Line This is an itinerary for a Dracula themed tour of Romania and a description of the six places I included in the itinerary.
This itinerary is for those who are interested in visiting places associated with Vlad III Draculea, or Dracula for short. Since Vlad III is probably a more terrifying person than the fictional character based upon him (Dracula); and also considering the fact that this itinerary allegedly includes some of the most haunted places on planet earth, it is probably not for families with younger kids, or for the faint of heart. However, families with teenagers or older kids who find Dracula interesting would love this trip.
I was in Romania in July/August of 2008 with my oldest son and the water polo team he used to be part of. The coach, Mihai, is a Romanian native, a proud Dacian, and a former member of the Romanian Olympic water polo team. Mihai organized this trip for the kids to give them some international water polo experience and also as a pleasure trip. Mihai needed two parent volunteers, and one of them turned out to be me. Because of the kids we ended up doing a lot of things Dracula.
We visited Dracula's grave at the Snagov monastery, which is located on the isolated Snagov Island. Here we all drank from Dracula's well, including all the kids. By doing this we all formed a special bond with Dracula and I suggest that you do the same. We visited Draculas birthplace in Sighisoara in Transylvania, and we visited the Poenari Castle, Draculas "real" castle, which by the way, is the only place that the Discovery Channel team fled from in panic while filming the series "the worlds most haunted places". We also visited the famous Bran castle, which is widely thought of as "Draculas Castle", however, this is not really his castle. I also have a few other recommendations for you. Check out the itinerary and my description of the places below.
About Dracula
Vlad III (1431 - 1476) Draculea, Prince of Walachia, was born in Sighisoara in Transylvania. He is more commonly known as Vlad the Impaler (Vlad Tepes in Romanian), or simply Dracula. Vlad III is the real life character who served as the inspiration for the fictional character Dracula in Bram Stoker's famous novel "Dracula". Vlad III was called Vlad the Impaler because impalement was his preferred method of torture and execution. Vlad III did not get a good start in life. As a young child he was sent to Turkey as a hostage and his father Vlad Dracul and his brother were brutally murdered by the pro-Ottoman Boyars in 1447. It was from the Ottoman's that Vlad allegedly learned the torture technique of impalement.
In case you don't know; when you impale somebody you stick a semi-sharp pole through the buttocks of the person and through his innards, slowly. The pole travels through the body either because of the persons own weight (sitting on it) or by pushing the pole into the body (using horses). Women with infants were typically impaled through the chest with their infants on top of their chests. When Vlad III came to power, he immediately had all the assembled nobles (boyars) arrested. He impaled the older boyars and their families on the spot, while taking the younger boyars to the Poenari Castle where they were worked to death rebuilding the Castle. During his reign, Vlad III eradicated the old boyar class of Walachia.
In the German stories about Vlad III he is often depicted as sadistically enjoying the torture of his victims. For example, in an old Woodblock print he is depicted dining while surrounded by a forest of impaled victims. According to the German stories Vlad III also used other forms of painful executions including skinning, roasting, boiling, nailing people's hats into their heads, and feeding people the flesh of their relatives and friends. His victims included men and women of all ages including children and babies. However, the Romanian stories about Vlad III are not quite as grim. It is estimated that the number of victims of Vlad III was between 40,000 and 100,000.
Vlad III Tepes was a cruel despot at the same time as he is admired for his successful defense of Walachia and Transylvania against Ottoman expansionism. When the Sultan Mehmed invaded Walachia with 150,000 men he was greeted by the sight of 20,000 impaled Turkish prisoners. This resulted in the Ottoman invaders becoming demoralized. So in the extension Dracula kept, not only Walachia and Transylvania, out of trouble, but all of Europe. Vlad III was unpredictable and immensely successful as well as heartless. To some he is a hero, to some he is a villain; however, it was Bram Stoker who turned him into a vampire.
The itinerary and driving directions
The route I will suggest will take you to Dracula's birth place Sighisoara first, and then you work yourself back to where he died in Snagov outside of Bucharest.
Fly to Bucharest from where ever you live. From Dallas to Bucharest it costs about $700 to $800 if you book on time. It is suggested that you stop and rest in Bucharest before you continue. In Bucharest you can always visit the Palace of the Parliament, an enormous palace that dwarfs the Versailles.
1. Sighisoara, the first stop
From Bucharest take DN1 north towards Ploiesti and Brasov, and then DN13 towards Sighisoara. This will take four and a half hour. If this is too long for you to drive in one day, you can always stop in Brasov over the night. Brasov is a beautiful city well worth seeing.
2. Poenari
When you are done visiting Sighisoara (one or two days), follow DN14 West towards Sibiu. This will take one and a half hour. Then follow DN14 south another 15 minutes and then follow DN1 East towards Brasov. After another 15 minutes make a right and follow DN7C south towards Pitesti and Curtea De Arges. This road is also referred to as the Transfagarasan highway. Along the Transfagarasan highway you will find the Poenari Castle on the right hand side. However, there are many other attractions along the road, for example, Curtea De Arges, Balea Lac, the beautiful mountains and the scenery, a huge dam, and a 2 mile long tunnel. The Transfagarasan highway is difficult to drive and it will take you several hours (4-5hrs). Therefore, you may want to stop and sleep somewhere, for example, at the Balea Lac Lodge. It should also be noted that the Transfagarasan highway is only open from spring to fall so you cannot visit in winter.
3. Bran Castle
When you are done with the Poenari Castle follow the Transfagarasan highway to Pitesti and then take DN73 east towards Brasov. This will take two hours and 15 minutes and the Bran Castle is about three quarters of the way. Along the way to Brasov you could also stop at the Rasnov fort if you wish, and you could also tour Brasov.
4. Hotel Acasa la Dracula
This is a good time to stop for the night and I suggest that you stay in Poiana Brasov 12km outside of Brasov. In Poiana Brasov there is a Dracula themed hotel, called Hotel Acasa la Dracula, which looks like a spooky Castle. Some of the rooms, for example, the prince suite, and the princess suite are located up in the towers. Inside this hotel they also have a wonderful restaurant. This is a really cool place for kids to stay.
5. Bucharest
This is what you do to drive back to Bucharest; take DN1 south towards Bucharest and drive until you get there. It will take about three hours. You can stop at the Pelosi Castle on the way if you wish. Bucharest was first mentioned during the reign of Vlad III and he made it his capital. Since this is still Romania's capital there is a lot to see here.
6. The Snagov Monastery
The Snagov Monastery is located on an Island in the Snagov Lake which is located about 25-30 km north of Bucharest. You have to drive on DN1 (E60) and then take the small roads towards the Snagov lake resort (ask for directions at your hotel). Once there a guide takes you there in a small boat (max four people).
The Dracula Destinations
1. Sighisoara (birthplace of Dracula)
If you want to visit places associated with Dracula in a somewhat chronological order you should start with Sighisoara in Transylvania. Sighisoara is considered to be the birth place of Vlad III Tepes Draculea. He was born here in 1431, in a three story house, at "Piata Muzeului" number 6. The building is located by a beautiful and picturesque plaza where young people are having fun long into the night. There are music, dancing, vendor booths, pubs and restaurants that are open until late at night (1AM and 2AM in the summer). In this same building there is a Dracula themed restaurant "Restaurant Casa Vlad Dracul" and a world famous but small hotel "Case cu Cerb". We stayed at "Casa cu Cerb" and we ate at Restaurant Casa Vlad Dracul. Casa Vlad Dracul offers a unique menu consisting of typical Romanian dishes, including some exotic dishes like fried brain, as well as Dracula themed dishes and more common dishes.
Casa cu Cerb was built in the 16th century and it has a long and interesting history. Even though Casa cu Cerb only has ten rooms Prince Charles from the United Kingdom often stays here when he comes to visit. Prince Charles allegedly has a special affinity for Transylvania and this hotel. When we were there we had five of the hotels ten rooms. The hotel also has a hotel restaurant that stays open late at night. They often have live music. The owner of the hotel is a very nice woman. She took us on a tour of Sighisoara, a leper colony, and the areas around Sighisoara, as well as a Gypsy village (upon the request of one of the kids). In the evening she offered us free Palinca (Transylvanian plum rum) and then she sat down with us and we all had a good time late into the night (way passed midnight).
Since Sighisoara is the birthplace of Dracula you could consider it the Vampire Capital of the World. However, Sighisoara is an interesting tourist destination in itself. Sighisoara is one of the most well preserved medieval towns in the world and it is on the UNESCO World Heritage List. I have read somewhere that Sighisoara is considered to be the most beautiful and well preserved inhabited citadel in Europe. Sighisoara has an authentic medieval architecture and it is one of the few fortified towns in Europe which is still inhabited. The medieval buildings, and towers, within the city walls give the city a special Gothic ambiance, that will take you back far in time.
You can check out my pictures here
http://www.texaswikmans.com/Romania2008/Photos/_07/_07.html
To read more click here.
2. Poenari Castle (Walachia)
A few years ago I was watching the World's most haunted places on the Discovery Channel. The Discovery team was stationed inside the Poenari Castle with infra read cameras, sensors, and all their other equipment. About 2AM in the morning they saw a couple of red lights climbing up the hill towards the castle. The red lights moved in strange paths and they could not see anything that possibly could explain the lights. They filmed the lights, and the TV audience, including me, could see them. The Discovery team members were far from superstitious but they eventually panicked and ran out of the Poenari Castle screaming and swearing, and running for their lives. It was the only time during "the world's most haunted places" series that the Discovery team fled from one of the haunted places they were supposed to investigate.
The Bran Castle is typically considered to be Dracula's Castle; however, Dracula's real castle is really the Poenari Castle. Dracula renovated the Poenari Castle using former nobility (Boyars) as slave labor. The Poenari Castle sits on top of a hill near the Arges River on the border between Walachia and Transylvania. The Castle was built already in the 13th century; however, it would later be abandoned and left in ruins. In the 15th century Vlad III repaired the castle realizing the great value of a castle sitting high up on a hill. Vlad III made the Poenari Castle into one of his main fortresses.
The Poenari Castle is located far away from the typical tourist destinations in Romania and it is difficult to get to. Therefore it does not get many visitors. In my opinion that is part of the charm. However, to reach the Poenari Castle you have to climb 1,500 stairs. The Castle is partially in ruins, so there is not that much too see. However, the surrounding scenery is astounding and the place is somewhat spooky. Visiting the Poenari Castle was mostly about being in the place where Dracula once lived.
You can check out my pictures here
http://www.texaswikmans.com/Romania2008/Photos/_10/_10.html
To read more click here
3. The Bran Castle
The Bran Castle is located in the village of Bran not far from Brasov in Transylvania. It has been made out to be Dracula's castle in the popular media. However, it is not really Dracula's castle. There is not even any proof that he ever stayed there. It is still an interesting Dracula Destination and typically seen as the chief Dracula Destination in the world (even though I would dispute that).
The Bran Castle was built in the 12th century and was used in the defense against the Ottoman Empire. It was also used as a customs post between Transylvania and Walachia. In 1920 the castle became a royal residence within the Kingdom of Romania, and it became the principal home of Queen Marie. It is still decorated with furniture, rugs, and arts and crafts from her time. There is a lot to see in the Bran Castle so touring it is an interesting and fun experience.
Outside the Bran castle there is a garden and an open air museum featuring various traditional Romanian cottages, cellars and other peasant structures. There is also an open air market where they sell various snacks, food, various souvenirs, and gift items. Here you could buy Romanian Wine with names like "Vampire Blood". Since the Bran Castle is an old Royal castle, it does have a real historical value, and is therefore an interesting tourist destination with or without Dracula.
You can check out my pictures here
http://www.texaswikmans.com/Romania2008/Photos/_10/_10.html
To read more click here
4. Hotel Acasa la Dracula - Poiana Brasov
Poiana Brasov is a ski resort located 12 kilometer from Brasov. However, you can visit here also during the summer. The surrounding mountains are beautiful and you can take the gondolas up to the mountain tops. There are many hotels here but the hotel that seemed to be the most fun in my opinion is Hotel Acasa la Dracula. We did not stay here. We stayed at Casa Viorel which is also a good hotel. However, what makes Hotel Acasa la Dracula so special is the spooky Dracula theme. We toured Hotel Acasa la Dracula and we ate at the hotel restaurant and tried out the torture chamber. The hotel looked a medieval castle and the rooms were decorated accordingly. However, the rooms were luxurious and nice looking, they just had a theme. The Prince's suite (Dracula's) and the princess's suite were located at the top of two towers. In my opinion this hotel is a great place to stop and sleep if you are on a Dracula tour. A single room is 230 Lei, which is about $90, a double is 285 Lei ($115), and a suite or an apartment is 365 Lei per night ($150).
You can check out my pictures here
http://www.texaswikmans.com/Romania2008/Photos/_12/_12.html
To read more click here
5. Bucharest
Bucharest was first mentioned as "the Citadel of Bucureºti" in 1459, when it became the residence of Vlad III the Impaler. He made it his capital. Bucharest is an extraordinarily city. It is beautiful, it has a rich and turbulent history, and it has a famous night life. It is often called the Paris of the East, or little Paris.
In my opinion the most interesting attraction in Bucharest is the Palace of the Parliament. It is the largest palace in the world and the largest administrative building in the world. It is so big that it dwarfs the Versailles. The Palace of the Parliament is also extremely beautiful. It is lavishly decorated, has marble floor, and it is filled with art work, crystal and gold. It has 1,100 large rooms and is larger than any football stadium. However, there are other interesting attractions in Bucharest including, the old City, the Village Museum, the Art Museum, the Revolution Square, the Romanian Athenaeum, the Unirii Avenue, the Stavropoleos Church, the Romanian Patriarchal Cathedral, the Natural History Museum, and much more.
You can check out my pictures here
http://www.texaswikmans.com/Romania2008/Photos/_04/_04.html
To read more click here
6. The Snagov Monastery
The Snagov Monastery is located on a small Island in the Snagov Lake 25-30 kilometers north of Bucharest. The island is covered by lush vegetation and trees as well as some grassy glades. In the middle of the island is a monastery which looks like an orthodox church with three round towers. The care taker of the monastery was a monk with a beard dressed in all black. He was very friendly and quite happy to have visitors, especially all the way from Texas.
The inside of the monastery is lavishly decorated with brass, gold, and beautiful cloth and icons. Inside the monastery is also Dracula's tomb. There is a picture of Dracula standing on the floor and there are candles and flowers standing on the tomb. Behind the monastery there is a garden where there used to be stables during medieval times. In the garden there is a well which harbors a special power. If you drink the water from this well (Dracula's well) you will form a special bond with Dracula and the Snagov Island. We all drank from the well and we passed a cup around. The monk also gave us new names. My new name is "Juan". The monk gave the name Gabriel to my son because he said he looked like an angel. The monk ordained him to be the special protector of Dracula. He told us that since we had all drunk from the well we would all come back and see him one day.
I have read that you are not supposed to take pictures of the monastery and Dracula's tomb; however, the monk encouraged us to do so. If you want see my pictures check them out below.
You can check out my pictures here
http://www.texaswikmans.com/Romania2008/Photos/_03/_03.html
To read more click here
Some Practical advice when visiting Romania
Romanians are quite friendly towards both European and American visitors and we were treated very well. Most Romanians do not speak English so this can be a problem unless you have a translator with you. Credit Cards are often not taken, not even by many hotels. This is a cash based economy. However, there are many ATM machines and many places where you can change currency. I should add that you have to change your currency back to dollars, Euros, or what ever your currency is before you leave because Lei (the Romanian currency) is for what ever reason not traded outside of Romania. Crime is not very high in Romania and Romania is a safe place. However, pick pockets is a problem so hold on to your wallet. The best time to visit Transylvania (and Romania) is in summer (exception ski vacation). Winter can apparently be quite cold and dreadful, however, in the summer the temperature is quite perfect in Transylvania (it was in the 80's when we visited).
Final Recommendation
Dracula is based on a real life person, Vlad III Tepes (or Draculea). Romania and especially Transylvania are beautiful places and doing a Dracula themed tour of Romania is in my opinion a great idea if you have older kids. Based on my own experience, they will love it. I hope this itinerary could be of help when you plan such a trip.
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Member: Thomas Wikman
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The photo is of my daughter and a Beluga Whale, Sea World, San Antonio
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