Hidden Island of Tranquillity
Written: Oct 25 '05 (Updated Oct 25 '05)
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Product Rating:
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Pros: vivid blue lakes, ruggedly beautiful scenery, cultural heritage
Cons: difficult to actually get there; very popular in the summer, must book early
The Bottom Line: Isolated island with beautiful sparkling lakes, limitless fresh air, and cultural heritage. Relax, take in some culture, hike, boat, and fish to your heart's content.
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| jc_hall's Full Review: Manitoulin Island |
Not to be confused with nearby Michigan’s Manitou Islands, Manitoulin Island is the world’s largest fresh water island. Situated in the waters of Lake Huron and Georgian Bay, it lies just off the coast of Ontario, Canada, separated from the mainland by the North Channel.
It is not an easy place to reach, from either the Canadian or American side. The island approaches the mainland of Ontario only at its northeast corner, where bridges spanning two much smaller islands (Birch Island and Great La Cloche Island) form the only land route. Reaching it by boat (there is the Chi-Cheemaun ferry) is the only alternative.
From the American side, you’ll need some directions I happened to find online: From Mackinaw City in Michigan's lower peninsula, you must cross the Straits of Mackinac, travel 50 miles across Michigan's upper peninsula, cross the international border at Sault Ste. Marie, bridge the St. Mary's River, traverse 200 miles of Ontario mainland forest, crest the La Cloche mountains, and wind your way down the rocky hills to the Little Current passage.
Not the most straightforward route in the world, eh! But that’s just it. The very out-of-the-way nature of the place has allowed Manitoulin Island to remain unspoiled. Its biodiversity is such that over 1500 plant species (representing a quarter of all Canadian species) are found on this ‘rainforest of the Great Lakes’.
The island of Manitoulin (‘Home of the Great Spirit’) boasts a rich and diverse Aboriginal heritage. Once entirely an Indian reserve and held by the various tribes as a blessed and sacred place, today a large Indian population still remains. The island is home to the Ojibwe ,Odawa, and Pottawatomi people. There are Pow Wow schedules for the different tribes every summer, as well as an annual cultural festival held between July and August.
Unfortuately, we were too late this year to sample any of this cultural heritage, but my husband and I decided to stop over on Manitoulin Island for one night anyway on our way up to Sault St Marie from where we were to depart on the Agawa Canyon Train Tour.
Accordingly, we drove 330 miles north west from Toronto along Highway 400. It took us just over 6 hours to get to Espanola, the last big town on the mainland. From Espanola, we wound our way south across first Birch Island and then Great La Cloche Island where jagged quartzite ridges of the La Cloche Mountains quickly overshadow the red rock of the Canadian Shield. We soon reach the century-old Little Current swing bridge, the only one still in operation in Canada. Having crossed over the swing bridge, we set foot, metaphorically speaking, on Manitoulin Island itself.
Our drive up from Toronto had been scenic, with fall colours blazing on either side of our route and lakes appearing one after another in the distance. But now, as we drive onto Manitoulin Island itself, nature comes closer by several degrees. The island’s landscape is pastoral, its gently sloping land teeming with lakes of all shapes and sizes. More than anything else, it is the startling colour of the lakes’ water that dazzles me. It is a rich and vivid shade--velvety blue, brilliant as liquid sapphire, and appears to be common to all the lakes on this island.
Remote, underpopulated, islands tend to have an aura all their own. It has been said that they evoke feelings of mystery and timelessness. True enough, our first sight of our destination filled us with awe, though arriving at twilight undoubtedly contributed much to the atmosphere.
We had booked our accommodation at the last minute, forgetting that the Canadian Thanksgiving long weekend would mean an influx of city-dwellers to the island. We had to go way down our list before we found something available. The location was excellent—it was smack on the tip of Lake Kagawong, but the ‘cottage’ was little more than an uninsulated shack. Luckily, we had the foresight to bring our sleeping-bag and an extra blanket along. Both were needed to keep us from hypothermia that night as the only heater was ancient and made more noise than heat. We drove to the only restaurant in town, and the price turned out to be much more than the fare was worth. Still, we had managed to arrive at our destination at twilight, no less, and took some great photos, so not all was lost.
The next morning, we packed up and drove the few minutes to Bridal Veil Falls. A picnic area leads down to the base of the falls and the trail out on the left leads to the old town. It is a tranquil little town, clustered around the remnants of an old paper mill. It being the long weekend, not much was open, except for a charming art studio/gallery (Edwards Studios Art Gallery) by the beach, close to the marina.
Sadly, we did not have time to explore the rest of the island, as we were due in Sault St Marie that evening, and we had another long drive ahead of us. But the little we saw of the island convinced us that it merited a visit in the summer, possibly next year. My husband is keen to hire a boat and go fishing in one or other of the many lakes. Most accommodation on the island caters for fishing/boating parties.
For the boating enthusiasts among you:
The North Channel of Lake Huron is recognized by many boating magazines and boating elite as a ‘boaters’ paradise’, with thousands of islands and countless secluded coves, bays and inlets. The visitor will find towns, marinas, and resorts that dot the vast stretches of wilderness shoreline in one of the world’s top sailing waters.
Hiking Trails
There are at least 10 listed. We had time only for one (Bridal Veil Falls trail) and highly recommend this. Take photos of the falls from the viewing platform. Do walk around the old town and visit the local gallery as well. Next time round, we hope to hike the Cup and Saucer Trail. With its 2 km of dramatic 70-metre cliffs and breathtaking view, up to 12 km of hiking trails and 2 km adventure trail, it is one of the most popular trails in Ontario. The photos look stunning.
Other places of interest on Manitoulin Island:
Little Current—largest town and gateway to the island
Kagawong—home of Bridal Veil Falls and the associated trail to the old town
Sheguiandah—quaint little town with campgrounds and cottage resorts
M’Chigeeng—galleries and craft shops showcasing native works of art and crafts
Manitowaning—harbour is home to the last steam powered passenger ship to sail the Great Lakes (the S.S. Norisle)
Wikwemikong—Pow Wows are held here; native theatre, ruins of the Holy Cross Mission
South Baymouth—connects Manitoulin to the Brice Peninsula and southern Ontario via the M.S. Chi-Cheemaun Ferry; restaurants, gift shops, picnic areas
Mindemoya—in the center of the island, lively in the summer; restaurants, gift shops
Providence Bay—longest sandy beach on the island, wheelchair accessible boardwalk, great views
Gore Bay—second largest town, located on the north shore, comes alive in the boating season with its natural harbour attracting boaters from around the Great Lakes
Related reviews:
Ride the Rails through the Magnificent North
(a review of Algoma Canyon Tour Train)
http://www.epinions.com/content_208992439940
Gateway to the Canadian Wilderness
(a review of Sault St Marie, Ontario, Canada)
http://www.epinions.com/content_209203662468
Silent Messengers
(a review of The Inuksuk Book)
http://www.epinions.com/content_209204711044
Recommended:
Yes
Best Suited For: Families
Best Time to Travel Here: Jun - Aug
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Epinions.com ID:
jc_hall
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Member: JC Hall
Location: Toronto, Canada
Reviews written: 199
Trusted by: 54 members
About Me:
Going back to Vancouver for Christmas! Happy Holidays, everyone!!
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