An absolute bargain amp with tons of power
Written: Mar 25 '05
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Pros: Tons of available power, very good list of features, staggered output array, great power connectors
Cons: very large size, crummy heat dissipation design.
The Bottom Line: For someone on a small budget, I can't think of any other amp with this much value.
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| dipitydoo's Full Review: Lightning Audio S4.600 4-Channel Amplifier Car Aud... |
This review is of the Lightning Audio Strike S4.600. Don't mind the picture that epinions has up, it is incorrect. The true image should be similar to the picture that they have for this model: Lightning Audio Storm S1.1000D Car Audio Amplifier, except that its a bit longer. It is basically 2 of those "radioactive" panels on top, with two rows of vent fins on each end. So, the amp itself is pretty large, measuring a bit over 20" in length, with the included end shroud to cover wiring on one end.
Here's some basic specs on this 4 channel amp:
Front channel power output:
60x2@4 ohm
90x2@2 ohm
180x1@4 ohm bridged
Rear channel power output:
150x2@4 ohm
225x2@2 ohm
450x1@4 ohm bridged
Crossover: 60hz - 400hz, 12db/oct, high,low or all pass
bass boost centered at 50hz, to 12db gain
chassis size: 10.25" x 2.25" x 19.8", +2.4" w/end caps
Here's a rundown of the basic layout and features of this amp. On the power end, there are 2 receptacles for plug-in modules for power/ground/remote connection. One is for main power, and the other is there to facilitate the addition of a capacitor. These are of high quality, and are very convenient for quickly unplugging the power wires. They will accept 8 gauge wire, but 4 gauge can be squeezed in. For minimal voltage loss, I would prefer 4 gauge for this amp. Next to the two receptacles are 4 fuses, (3) 20amp and (1) 25amp. On the opposite end are the speaker connections and controls for all the features. There are two pairs of inputs, along with a set of pass-through outputs, which should be convenient for adding additional amps. The speaker output terminals use standard philips drivers. Also included are receptacle for the supplied speaker level inputs and the remote controlled level adjuster. In the middle are the gain controls (1 for each pair of channels), crossover adjustment, and the bass boost (“juice boost”), which is variable from 0 – 12db gain, centered at 50hz.
This amp has two removable plates on top that can be replaced with optional fan modules to help keep this amp cool. Interestingly, for the price of this amp, the design layout calls for separate power supplies, one for each pair of channels. In theory, this prevents output of 1 pair of channels from being affected by the demands of the other pair. However, in a real car environment, this probably won’t prevent output from dropping on all channels due to a total input voltage sag to the amp.
I installed the amp in my friend’s 89 Toyota Celica convertible. He has an aftermarket Blaupunkt HU with pre-amp outputs, so the high-level inputs were bypassed in favor of the line inputs. The front speakers are alpine 4” coaxials in the factory lower dash location. The rear speakers are factory. The front channels of the amp was used to power the front speakers (the rear speakers were powered by the rear channels of the HU’s built-in power). The rear channels were bridged to power a Blueprint 1503 15” sub at 4 ohm. The sub was in a 1.75cf sealed enclosure. 4 gauge power and ground cables were used. After installing the amp, I went to adjust the settings on the amp. I set the gains for each pair of channels, then did the crossovers. The fronts were set to somewhere in the neighborhood of about 160hz high pass, and the lows to about 120hz lowpass. I wish manufacturers would put additional markings on the xover frequencies to get a better gauge of where the settings are really at, but I know they are somewhat limited on space. The amp was purchased as a refurbished unit on ebay, and did not come with the remote boost controller, so I could not hook it up. The juice boost was not utilized, as the response from the sub appeared fairly even.
Once hooked up, I was amazed at the amount of power available from this amp. The Blueprint sub was rated at around 1000w, and even though the amp doesn’t put out that much power, it still had plenty of power to move this monster sub. The front channels were more than enough for the front speakers, so clipping was never an issue. My friend could seriously use an upgrade to his front speakers (like a pair of 6.5’s) to bridge the gap between the mids and lows. But apparently, he’s not as serious into sound as I am, so he seems pretty content. At the end of the drive, the amp was fairly hot to the touch. Though the amp was very large, with fairly high heatsink mass around the sides, the lack of fins and the non-utilization of a heatsink on top decreased the surface area for heat to dissipate. Given that the amp is a class A/B amp, I expected fair amount of heat, though, and it did not shut down. The optional fan(s) for the amp may be a good idea during hot summer days, given the amp’s output potential. Personally, I would have appreciated added mass and fins on top of the amp, but I know many amp manufacturers deviate from physics in the name of aesthetics and/or gimmicks/features. As for current draw, I would expect the amp to have efficiency figures typical of a class a/b non-regulated design at 1/3 average power levels, somewhere around the low 30% range. When the system was cranked up at night, we noticed some amount of dimming lights, though not too excessive. This can be attributed to the amp’s potential as well as the car’s weak alternator. We’ll see if battery drain is a problem in the future.
Overall, this amp is one of the best values I’ve seen currently. Granted, the design is a few years old, and it is refurbished, but for the price ($70+ shipping), I don’t think you can find another amp with similar output and features near this range. I really liked the staggered power array as well, leaving much more power to the subs vs. the front stage. This feature should be great for a relatively modest system without using multiple amps.
Honestly, I am quite amazed at how cheap power can be these days. A few years ago, this much power potential would have cost hundreds of dollars. I would never even conceived of getting over 600w of power potential to run an entire system for less than even $200. With these kinds of costs, putting together a small to modest aftermarket system should be very cheap, if you know how to shop.
Recommended:
Yes
Amount Paid (US$): 90
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Epinions.com ID:
dipitydoo
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Member: Jay Yoon
Reviews written: 24
Trusted by: 4 members
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